Faceplate

From WikiWOOD

A faceplate is a metal flange that attaches to the headstock of a lathe, typically by screwing onto the threaded spindle. Faceplates have several holes which allow for using screws to attach items, such as a block of wood, which can then be mounted to the lathe.

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Please be responsible for your own safety. The articles found here may or may not cover all related safety considerations. Variables such as individual skill, condition of equipment and environmental conditions should always be considered. Consult your equipment owners manuals and always follow basic safety principals before attempting any of the techniques discussed here at WikiWOOD.

Faceplates come in a variety of sizes and are made from many materials, including steel, aluminum, and cast iron. For safety sake, always use a faceplate sized appropriately for the item being attached to it. A good rule of thumb is to use a faceplate no smaller then 1/3 the diameter of the piece being turned. For example, a block of wood 9" in diameter should have a faceplate at least 3" in diameter.

Many people make their own faceplates by welding threaded nuts onto the back of round, flat piece of steel, chain sprocket, or flange. Others make them by attaching a nut into a recessed hole on the back of a piece of hardwood, and still others make wooden faceplates by drilling a hole in the center and tapping it with threads that will fit onto the spindle.

Screws used to attach the wood to the faceplate should be the largest diameter that will fit through the hole in the faceplate, and should be long enough that at least 1/3 of the screw's length goes into the wood. DO NOT use drywall screws! The metal in these screws is very brittle, and is very prone to snapping! Use screws made from hardened steel, with deep sharp threads that will give the best bite into the wood. Self-tapping sheetmetal screws, decking screws (which look like drywall screws, but are very different!), and cross-threaded concrete screws all work very well. Also, look for screws with hex-heads, rather than slotted or phillips heads. This provides better control of the screw when being driven or removed, and is less likely to strip out.

Use as many screws as you can to attach the faceplate to the wood. If there are 8 holes, use 8 screws. If the faceplate only has 3 holes, consider drilling more.

When mounting the faceplate to the block, make sure the area where it will go is perfectly flat, or slightly concave, to ensure the faceplate mates evenly against the wood. If the faceplate rocks, flatten the area with a belt sander, plane, or chisel, or find a different place on the wood to attach it.

Ideally, allow metal faceplates to rust, to provide additional grip between the faceplate and the wood. Alternatively, you can put a layer of double faced tape, or adhesive-backed sandpaper between the two surfaces as well. --Tom 17:53, 12 February 2009 (CST)